Here’s How They Make ‘Levi’s’ – 1946

Archie McNair
Clothing Cutter Archie McNair runs a machine which goes along a table with a razor-sharp blade vibrating 3600 times per minute cutting out pieces of Levi Strauss overalls. The material is laid out three-dozen pairs high and after it is cut it is trucked to the sewing room to be stitched, finished, and have those famous copper rivets put on the pockets. Kitty Getzschmann, in another phase of making Levi’s at the Front street factory, operates a spreading machine which Jays out the coarse cotton drilling, or denim, on a 90-foot table so stenciled markings may be followed by the cutter. She is one of 46 girls employed at the Santa Cruz branch of the pioneer clothing manufacturing company. ~ The denim material for the Levi’s are especially made for the company by the Cone Export and Import company of Greensboro, North Carolina, and it arrives in Santa Cruz via rail in 800-pound bales. The material is un-Sanforized so it will shrink. Originally this was because cowboys, one of their best customers, vanted their Levi’s to shrink tight about the seat and become form fitting. Now, with women wearing them Netherby just shrugs his shoulders and his voice dies down to a whisper when describing the situation. Bolts of the denim are placed on long tables, three-dozen pairs high. There are two tables, each about 35 yards long, where the material is spread and a cutter, using a machine not unlike a jig saw but with a different blade, cuts out the various pieces which, when assembled, are sewn into the finished product. When the – material is cut It is trucked into another room where the sewing, riveting and finishing takes place. During the war years not all rivets were copper, due to scarcity. The sewing room would be a delight to a mass production efficiency expert, as each chore is scientifically laid out. There are 30 separate operations used in making the Levi’s and a girl does only one thing. Capacity of the Santa Cmz factory is 100 dozen pairs per day or one pair every 30 seconds, but with the shortage of workers it does not generally operate at full capacity, the superintendent stated. Netherby spends part of each week at the San Jose plant where he says the labor situation is better. Mrs. Ruthe Colciough is the office manager here and periodically they have a visit from the general superintendent, Milton Grunbaum, of San Francisco.. ~ S.C.S., Vol.91,188,9 August 1946
Kitty Getzschmann

この記事は”Santa Cruz Sentinel”からの抜粋で、1946年当時のSanta Cruz工場について書かれています。

1. 同社の主要店はサンフランシスコのBattery and Pine通りで、San Jose(サンノゼ)に工場があり、1944年4月にSanta Cruz(サンタクルス)に工場が設立された。この二工場のマネージャーはStephen B. Netherby(ネザービー)で会社の年間給与は、雇用者の数に応じて約78,000ドルです。現在、工場には46人の女性と4人の男性が働いています。

2. リーバイスのデニム素材は、ノースカロライナ州グリーンズボロのコーン・エキス・アンド・インポート社によって特別に製造され、800ポンドの梱包材で鉄道でサンタクルーズに到着します。材料はSanofized(防縮)されていないので、収縮します。もともと、これは、カウボーイ(メインの顧客)が彼らの自慢のリーバイスが収縮することでうまくお尻にフィットする。

3. デニムは訳35ヤード(32m)の長いテーブルに置かれ、高さは3ダース(36枚)です。ジグソーではなく、刃が異なる機械を使用して、組み立てたときに完成品に縫い付けられる様々な部分が切り取られます。材料が切断されると、縫製、リベット、仕上げが行われる別の部屋に運ばれます。

4. 戦争の年の間にすべてのリベットが銅であったわけではありません。

5. 縫製部屋は、各作業が科学的にレイアウトされていてリーバイスを作るのに30の別々の操作があり、女の子は一工程づつしか担当しません。

6. Santa Cruz工場の能力は、1日当たり100ダースペア(1200本)、または30秒ごとに1ペアですが、一般的にフルキャパシティでは動作しません。

ソース元:Santa Cruz Sentinel 1946